A console and soundbar fight for the same TV socket. You want smooth play and sound, but most sets force a choice. You need two fast ports for both, so check which is 48Gbps, which is eARC, and if your bar passes 4K120 — Tom’s Guide confirms you’ll need a real HDMI 2.1 port for PS5 and a separate one that works with eARC for Atmos, and FlatpanelsHD confirms the 48Gbps versus 18Gbps split is what actually decides it.
Spec sheets and HDMI Forum certification are the best sources for per-port bandwidth, not anecdote. Many budget TVs share one 48Gbps port with eARC, so a soundbar steals it and forces the console to 18Gbps 4K60 without VRR, creating a traffic jam. A short decision tree below shows wiring that keeps Atmos and 120Hz without new hardware.
Why a budget TV with one HDMI 2.1 port forces you to choose between PS5 and soundbar
Many budget TVs label four HDMI inputs but only one is wired for 48Gbps. That same input also carries eARC, the audio return channel that sends sound from TV to bar. When you plug the bar into eARC, you lose the only fast video input.
This creates the exact pain point buyers hit: eARC port is your TV’s only HDMI 2.1 connection, so you must pick a device that actually needs it, such as a console or gaming PC. Pocket-lint suggests plugging in the device that benefits most, but that leaves your soundbar without high-bitrate audio.
On sets with just two fast inputs, traffic jam where three devices need to split two high-bandwidth ports happens fast. You have PS5, soundbar, and streaming stick, but only two 48Gbps sockets. One goes to the bar for eARC, one to PS5, and the stick drops to 18Gbps.
In xda-developers, a user noted the overlap leaves me with just one high-bandwidth port because HDMI 4 and eARC HDMI 3 share wiring. The community fix that came up repeatedly was to move the bar to optical or use an HDMI 2.1 receiver to free the eARC port, because eARC shares 48Gbps differential pairs and cannot be duplicated to another input. The HDMI Forum spec shows eARC uses dedicated data pairs, which is why a TV cannot give you eARC on two ports at once.
Stage boxes showing TV with 2 high-bandwidth ports, one marked eARC, then soundbar occupying eARC leaving single port for PS5 and streaming stick
HDMI 2.1 48Gbps vs HDMI 2.0 18Gbps — what your PS5 actually loses at 4K60
HDMI 2.1 is the version that can carry up to 48Gbps using new FRL signaling, while HDMI 2.0 tops at 18Gbps with TMDS. That extra bandwidth is what lets a signal carry 4K at 120Hz with HDR. 48Gbps versus 18Gbps is not just a number, it sets which gaming features fit.
PS5 has a single HDMI 2.1 output on the back. To get 4K120, VRR, and ALLM you need a TV input that is truly 48Gbps. VRR is variable refresh rate that smooths tearing, and ALLM is auto low latency mode that switches TV to game mode.
Both features need the faster link to work at all.
If your PS5 ends up on an 18Gbps port, you still get 4K60 HDR, but you lose 120Hz, you lose VRR, and you often lose ALLM auto-switching. In the settings menu, look for: In PS5 Settings > Screen and Video > Video Output, check 120Hz Output and VRR status to see if TV accepted 48Gbps mode. If it shows Not Supported, you are on an 18Gbps input.
An Ultra High Speed HDMI Cable 48Gbps is the cable that is tested to carry all HDMI 2.1 features, including uncompressed 4K@120 and eARC. A Premium High Speed cable only guarantees 18Gbps.
Comparison grid showing 18Gbps HDMI 2.0 and 48Gbps HDMI 2.1 max resolution, refresh, VRR, ALLM, and eARC support side by side
What Hisense U6N, TCL QM6K and Samsung CU7000 really give you per HDMI input
Spec sheets list total HDMI count, not per-port speed. You need to read the port table in the manual. Run the same check yourself across each device at default settings: open the spec PDF and log exactly which numbered port supports what.
Hisense U6N: manufacturer listing shows three HDMI 2.0 ports on the side, the third doubles as eARC, plus a fourth HDMI 2.0 port on the back. Tom’s Guide review found three HDMI 2.0 ports third doubles as eARC and noted you get a fourth HDMI 2.0 port, with no 48Gbps port. That means no 4K120 VRR at all on this model, despite HDMI 2.1 marketing in some listings.
TCL QM6K: spec sheet lists 2x HDMI 2.1, 2x HDMI 2.0, with 2 of 4 at 48Gbps. RTINGS notes Two HDMI inputs support 48Gbps. Samsung CU7000: one retailer listing notes HDMI In 2 supports eARC with three HDMI ports that support HDR10+ and ALLM, but a dedicated spec review found it does NOT support HDMI 2.1 but has three HDMI 2.0 ports. Verify against the manufacturer’s PDF before buying, as listings mix HDMI version with feature support.
Comparison table showing Hisense U6N 4x HDMI 2.0, TCL QM6K 2x 48Gbps 2x 18Gbps, Samsung CU7000 3x HDMI 2.0 with eARC on port 2
Hisense U6N pros: low price, good mini-LED brightness for the tier. Cons: no real 48Gbps port, so PS5 stays at 4K60 without VRR, not ideal if you bought PS5 for 120Hz. TCL QM6K pros: two real 48Gbps ports allow PS5 plus eARC bar without swap. Cons: eARC shares one fast port, so adding Xbox Series X forces a choice.
Samsung CU7000 pros: simple UI, three ports. Cons: marketing confusion where listings say HDMI 2.1 but spec audit shows three HDMI 2.0, so it does not give you 4K120 at all — a genuine reason not to buy if 120Hz matters.
If you need two fast ports under $500, TCL QM6K is the better pick on bandwidth alone, but check current street price and verify the spec sheet says 2x HDMI 2.1 48Gbps before you buy. This comparison is research-based analysis from public spec sheets and port photos, not a lab test of every unit. For why eARC choice matters for Atmos passthrough, see our guide on Why Won’t My Soundbar Play Dolby Atmos From My Budget TV, which explains passthrough logic this bandwidth table sets up.
Can you use an HDMI splitter or switch for PS5 4K120 VRR without losing eARC?
That per-port table explains why a splitter seems tempting. A splitter takes one source and mirrors it to two displays. An 4K@120Hz 48Gbps VRR ALLM splitter that lists 8K@60Hz, 4K@120Hz, 5120×1440@120Hz, VRR, ALLM, HDR10, HDCP2.3 and Dolby Vision can keep those features if it truly supports FRL. Many cheap splitters are HDMI 2.0 18Gbps 4K60 only and will drop you to 60Hz without VRR.
A switch does the opposite, it lets you plug multiple sources into one TV input and select one. To keep 4K120 VRR you need a switch that explicitly lists 48Gbps FRL and VRR ALLM passthrough. Even then, eARC passthrough is the hard part. If you route the soundbar through the splitter, CEC volume control often breaks and you get audio dropouts.
Side-by-side boxes comparing a splitter and a 48Gbps-rated switch for keeping PS5 4K120 VRR without losing eARC to the soundbar
On AVForums, a user reported Atmos doesn’t trigger at all over eARC when PS5 goes to TV and TV uses eARC to bar, but it works when PS5 plugs directly into the bar. The fix that came up was to connect PS5 to soundbar HDMI In and use eARC for video to TV, or use an HDMI 2.1 audio extractor that supports eARC, because ARC cannot carry TrueHD Atmos and needs eARC’s higher data channel. A full suite of four high-bandwidth inputs would sidestep this entirely, but budget sets rarely give you that.
The wiring that keeps 4K120, VRR and Atmos at the same time
You do not need a new TV if you wire around the shared port. The decision comes down to how many 48Gbps inputs your set really has and whether your bar can pass video.
Three boxes showing the wiring outcome for a TV with two shared 48Gbps ports, one shared port, and zero 48Gbps ports
Scenario 1: TV with 2x 48Gbps where eARC shares one
Put soundbar on the eARC port, PS5 on the other 48Gbps port, streaming stick on any 18Gbps port. You keep 4K120, VRR, ALLM for PS5 and TrueHD Atmos via eARC. Use Ultra High Speed cables for the two fast links.
Scenario 2: TV with only 1x 48Gbps shared with eARC
Use a soundbar that has HDMI 2.1 passthrough at 48Gbps. Plug PS5 into bar HDMI In, bar HDMI Out eARC to TV eARC port. The bar extracts audio and passes video to TV, preserving both. If your bar lacks passthrough, you must choose: bar on eARC for Atmos and PS5 at 4K60 on 18Gbps, or PS5 at 4K120 and bar on optical losing Atmos.
Scenario 3: TV with zero 48Gbps like Hisense U6N
Accept 4K60 HDR with ALLM, or upgrade TV. No splitter adds a 48Gbps port that does not exist. For this setup, put stick on 18Gbps, PS5 on best port, bar on eARC.
Try this before you buy: count ports on back panel photo and check if eARC label shares same number as 4K@120Hz label — if same, you have only one high-bandwidth port. Also check compliance marks: a Class B digital device FCC Part 15 rating confirms the TV meets US radio-frequency emissions limits for home use, which says nothing about port speed but is a trust signal that the set passed authorization. Wi-Fi CERTIFIED 6 low-latency certification helps with cloud gaming latency when you use streaming apps, but does not affect HDMI bandwidth. Ideally, look for a TV with at least two HDMI 2.1 ports, with three or four being optimal for PS5, Xbox, and eARC bar at once without swapping cables.
How to check real port bandwidth from the label and EDID in the store
Labels tell you more than the box. Look for physical embossing next to each HDMI number. You want to see 4K@120Hz or 48Gbps printed, not just HDMI 2.1. Many budget sets print 4K@120Hz only on the fast inputs.
Open the manual spec table and find the row for HDMI 2.1 rated speed or HDMI inputs support up to 48Gbps bandwidth. RTINGS found Two HDMI inputs support 48Gbps on some TCL models, which is the proof you need. If the table only lists 18Gbps or TMDS, those ports are HDMI 2.0 even if marketing says HDMI 2.1.
For a hands-on check, bring a laptop and read EDID. On Windows, use a free EDID reader to see supported FRL rates, 4K120 flag, VRR flag, and ALLM flag per input. Samsung CU7000 example shows why this matters: one listing says 3x HDMI 2.1, but a review finds it does NOT support HDMI 2.1. Look for Ultra High Speed holographic labels on certified cables too, which require Ultra High Speed HDMI certification with testing at an authorized center.
- Step 1: Check rear panel labels with phone flashlight for 4K@120Hz and eARC numbers.
- Step 2: Check manual spec table for 48Gbps vs 18Gbps per HDMI number.
- Step 3: Check EDID on laptop for FRL rate, 4K120 and VRR flags.
Why plugging PS5 into the eARC port is the most common setup mistake
The eARC label looks premium, so many plug PS5 into it expecting the best picture. eARC is audio return, designed to send audio out from TV to bar, not video in from console. plugging PS5 into the eARC port would be fundamentally misusing that specific port.
The correct way is PS5 directly to an HDMI 2.1 port that lists 4K@120Hz, and bar to the eARC port. The HDMI 2.1 port provides the bandwidth for 4K 120Hz and VRR, which eARC alone does not guarantee for inbound video. When you reverse them, you get no picture or no sound, or the TV forces 4K60.
Before committing, check soundbar switches to TV eARC input when you switch TV input to PS5 — if it doesn’t, CEC is off. Opening the panel behind a wall-mounted TV risks bending pins when you swap cables repeatedly, so use a right-angle Ultra High Speed adapter rather than forcing the cable straight in.
Final Verdict
Count real 48Gbps ports, not total HDMI count. Two real 48Gbps ports is the practical minimum for PS5 plus eARC bar if you want 4K120 with VRR and Atmos without swapping. Check the spec sheet for 2x HDMI 2.1 48Gbps and confirm whether eARC shares one, or you will stay stuck at 4K60 without VRR or lose Atmos.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use an HDMI splitter to add more HDMI 2.1 ports for PS5?
No, a splitter mirrors one source to two displays and cannot add distinct inputs. Many cheap splitters are 18Gbps 4K60 only, so you need a switch that lists 4K@120Hz splitter supports VRR ALLM at 48Gbps FRL. Use an HDMI 2.1 switch with 48Gbps support instead if you need extra inputs.
My budget TV says HDMI 2.1 but PS5 shows only 60Hz — is that normal?
Yes, some sets market HDMI 2.1 but only support 4K at 60Hz through those ports, which is misleading. Hisense U6N has four HDMI 2.0 ports and Samsung CU7000 does NOT support HDMI 2.1 per spec audit (see the port comparison above), so check EDID for 4K@120Hz flag before you keep it.
Do I need HDMI 2.1 for a soundbar to get Dolby Atmos?
You need eARC for TrueHD Atmos because ARC is only about 1Mbps and eARC is 37Mbps with a dedicated data channel. The bar itself does not need 48Gbps video bandwidth, but the cable should be Ultra High Speed supports eARC certified. If your bar lacks 48Gbps passthrough, plug PS5 directly to TV and use eARC for audio.
Is a TV with two HDMI 2.1 ports enough if I also have a streaming stick?
Yes for most setups. Put bar on eARC, PS5 on the other 48Gbps, and stick on 18Gbps because sticks only need 4K60 HDR. If your stick needs 4K120 gaming, you need a third 48Gbps port, as Tom’s Guide notes at least two HDMI 2.1 ports is ideal and three or four is optimal for two consoles plus bar.
